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Need a few tips (or a hand) with sorting out wiring


Gobert23

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Basically, I've got wiring in and working. It's not pretty (it'll certainly not win any awards), but it'll start on the button. Just need to take it to the next stage... Getting it neat, tidy and protected against the elements.

Anyone been there and got the t-shirt?

Wiring is something that I've (to date) stayed well away from, so any useful tips, tricks or general things that should be avoided would be greatly appreciated.

:beerchug:

Oh, it's a 'nakkid' as well, so there's nowhere to tuck wiring behind. That's a major reason why I want to get it looking (as well as being functional) as good as possible.

Burnt fingers (soldering iron) not a problem, but can't find a place to buy decent connectors, sleeving and clips.

Ta muchlies

G

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Basically, I've got wiring in and working. It's not pretty (it'll certainly not win any awards), but it'll start on the button. Just need to take it to the next stage... Getting it neat, tidy and protected against the elements.

Anyone been there and got the t-shirt?

Wiring is something that I've (to date) stayed well away from, so any useful tips, tricks or general things that should be avoided would be greatly appreciated.

:eusa_think:

Oh, it's a 'nakkid' as well, so there's nowhere to tuck wiring behind. That's a major reason why I want to get it looking (as well as being functional) as good as possible.

Burnt fingers (soldering iron) not a problem, but can't find a place to buy decent connectors, sleeving and clips.

Ta muchlies

G

Vehicle Wiring Products

I'd suggest getting proper loom tape to tape your wires together, maybe the screw on cable tie holders to keep the loom in place. Get it all laid out on the bike, then tape up and fix, then shorten the wires/crimp on connectors. Get a proper, decent crimping tool and learn to do a good crimp connection before you start making your lloom. - Don't even go near your loom with solder if you can help it.....

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Vehicle Wiring Products

I'd suggest getting proper loom tape to tape your wires together, maybe the screw on cable tie holders to keep the loom in place. Get it all laid out on the bike, then tape up and fix, then shorten the wires/crimp on connectors. Get a proper, decent crimping tool and learn to do a good crimp connection before you start making your lloom. - Don't even go near your loom with solder if you can help it.....

Brilliant! :eusa_think:

This'll keep me busy this evening... reading and noting all the lil' bits that I'm going to need.

Cheers for that.

G

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Phase One's Johnny is the master, works from this

RS Components

mainly.

If you want a really neat job heat shrink is your friend, you van get all sorts of multi way shrink splitters as well, really glad I don't have to modify whole looms myself. ;)

Wurth do some excellent waterproof clip together unions that are worth .sic. a look, can't find a link on-line, but for fuel pump feeds and things they're great, as you can remove components without knackering the original fixings. They've got lots of yellow & red bellow seals between the blocks, I'd have an ask around at your local garage someone should know what I'm talking about.

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http://www.simtekuk.co.uk

used these boys for the 'mono wiring. really helpful.

i hate wiring, can't really do it, and it always looks a ferkin mess. However, the chap i just went for a mtb ride with was the harness engineer/techie at Boreham (where they used to do the works escorts/sierra rally cars before it went to malcom wilson up north. I am def gonna coerce him into doing the next one!

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Another alternative to heatshrink (in case you need to get back at the wire afterwards and don`t fancy cutting the fucker off for hours..) is wiring tape. My brother got me some, he works on the mid air refueling VC10`s. I assume its available to the public, basically a rubbery tape with a yellow line down the centre. As you wind it round the wires you use the yellow centreline as a guide to give you a consistant overlap. Its not sticky to the touch and only adheres to itself unlike insulating tape which leaves all that gunk. Its 100% waterproof and when you need to, you can peel it off,do the work,then wind it back on again. Amazing stuff.

Will try find out the official name for you.

Rob.

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Phase One's Johnny is the master, works from this

RS Components

mainly.

If you want a really neat job heat shrink is your friend, you van get all sorts of multi way shrink splitters as well, really glad I don't have to modify whole looms myself. :icon_blackeye:

Wurth do some excellent waterproof clip together unions that are worth .sic. a look, can't find a link on-line, but for fuel pump feeds and things they're great, as you can remove components without knackering the original fixings. They've got lots of yellow & red bellow seals between the blocks, I'd have an ask around at your local garage someone should know what I'm talking about.

Cool, RS is definitely a good source of stuff but pricey and I find it very difficult to find what I want..... If you want connectors then you need to know what they call them..... Often you don't know that, you only know what they look like....

Those multi way heatshrink things sound cool!

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I'm after a workshop size box/set of proper connetectors, you know, one,two, three and four pin clip together block connectors. I hate bullet connectors and spade connectors. So if anyone knows a good source of these I'd be grateful.

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I'm after a workshop size box/set of proper connetectors, you know, one,two, three and four pin clip together block connectors. I hate bullet connectors and spade connectors. So if anyone knows a good source of these I'd be grateful.

http://www.simtekuk.co.uk

connectors:

econoseal:

2/3/4 way etc. waterproof. you have to buy them singly, but they are proper oe spec. you also need a proper AMP crimper, but you can borrow mine if you want

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Vehicle wiring products do boxes of selections of various types of multiway connectors

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-...iconnectors.php

Pay close attention to their power ratings though - the weather proof connectors can only take 1mm2 cable and have a pretty low power rating.

Dataspares are the folks to speak to for oem connectors

http://www.dataspares.com/connectors_home.html

http://www.simtekuk.co.uk

connectors:

econoseal:

2/3/4 way etc. waterproof. you have to buy them singly, but they are proper oe spec. you also need a proper AMP crimper, but you can borrow mine if you want

Many thanks :icon_salut:

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I am officially humbled by those with more knowledge (and obvious experience) of elec-trickery.

The loom is a real bodge at the moment, btu I really do need to do something and start somewhere :icon_salut:

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Another alternative to heatshrink (in case you need to get back at the wire afterwards and don`t fancy cutting the fucker off for hours..) is wiring tape. My brother got me some, he works on the mid air refueling VC10`s. I assume its available to the public, basically a rubbery tape with a yellow line down the centre. As you wind it round the wires you use the yellow centreline as a guide to give you a consistant overlap. Its not sticky to the touch and only adheres to itself unlike insulating tape which leaves all that gunk. Its 100% waterproof and when you need to, you can peel it off,do the work,then wind it back on again. Amazing stuff.

Will try find out the official name for you.

Rob.

Sounds like self-amalgamating tape. It has a backing that you need to peel off an over time, it partially , well, amalgamates to itself. never seen it with the line down the middle, though.

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I'd doubt it's amalgamating tape as when that's been on for a little while it, erm, amalgamates, so you can't really peel it off without if getting in a right mess. It leaves no residue though, but it does gum itself round itself, if that makes sense.

Also, there was a mention of not using solder. Without wishing to sound funny, why not?

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I'd doubt it's amalgamating tape as when that's been on for a little while it, erm, amalgamates, so you can't really peel it off without if getting in a right mess. It leaves no residue though, but it does gum itself round itself, if that makes sense.

Also, there was a mention of not using solder. Without wishing to sound funny, why not?

I mentioned not using solder if you can help. Basically I have been told many times and found out from bitter experience (pushing) that it is a bad idea on anything that can move. soldering makes the wire next to the joint go brittle and it'll break after a while. You'll spend all your weekends tracking down electrical problems! Crimp everything you possibly can but if you have to solder it then pot it so it can't move or vibrate!

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Another alternative to heatshrink (in case you need to get back at the wire afterwards and don`t fancy cutting the fucker off for hours..) is wiring tape. My brother got me some, he works on the mid air refueling VC10`s. I assume its available to the public, basically a rubbery tape with a yellow line down the centre. As you wind it round the wires you use the yellow centreline as a guide to give you a consistant overlap. Its not sticky to the touch and only adheres to itself unlike insulating tape which leaves all that gunk. Its 100% waterproof and when you need to, you can peel it off,do the work,then wind it back on again. Amazing stuff.

Will try find out the official name for you.

Rob.

Sounds like self-amalgamating tape. It has a backing that you need to peel off an over time, it partially , well, amalgamates to itself. never seen it with the line down the middle, though.

I'd doubt it's amalgamating tape as when that's been on for a little while it, erm, amalgamates, so you can't really peel it off without if getting in a right mess. It leaves no residue though, but it does gum itself round itself, if that makes sense.

Also, there was a mention of not using solder. Without wishing to sound funny, why not?

Sounds like self amalgamating to me. Its the dogs knob for looming work as it seals itself and if done properly waterproof. I cut my teeth lacing and looming, basically its like crocheting (crowshaying) a loom, bastards these days use ty-wraps. Never done a bike that way, but I'd have no complaints about using amamlgamating tape for full runs of wire.

I mentioned not using solder if you can help. Basically I have been told many times and found out from bitter experience (pushing) that it is a bad idea on anything that can move. soldering makes the wire next to the joint go brittle and it'll break after a while. You'll spend all your weekends tracking down electrical problems! Crimp everything you possibly can but if you have to solder it then pot it so it can't move or vibrate!

It used to be the case that some aircraft fits wouldn't use solder, mainly down to high frequency airframe vibration, they tended to wire wrap the avionics which is a black art I've partaken of and is a ball ache. Again I'd have no problem with soldering bike connectors, the key is choose the right soldering iron tip for the gauge of wire and solder being used as long as you do this the wire won't overheat and insulation won't go brittle.

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