Kile Posted August 25, 2009 Report Share Posted August 25, 2009 My recent purchase has seen a temperature of 137degrees on the short test ride I took. Obviously that is not good. I have no instruction manual, but an online service manual and on p380(!), there is finally a troubleshooting section. However most of the jobs I cannot perform due to not having the tools. So short of checking the coolant levels and flushing the coolant out I am hoping for suggestions.... Ive just got it to get me to work. I have no money to put it in a dealers and am quite desperate(oh&Im in a foreign speaking country -Also, Im unclear when putting in fresh coolant after removing the radiotor hose, if the coolant goes in the radiator? Plus obviously the coolant becomes hot; is it ok to have the lid off and run the engine, while shaking the bike side to side to remove the air? Obliged Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
originalracingsnake Posted August 25, 2009 Report Share Posted August 25, 2009 My recent purchase has seen a temperature of 137degrees on the short test ride I took. Obviously that is not good. Is that deg F or C? Could the clocks be set to display in F by any chance? Was the fan running? I have no instruction manual, but an online service manual and on p380(!), there is finally a troubleshooting section. However most of the jobs I cannot perform due to not having the tools. So short of checking the coolant levels and flushing the coolant out I am hoping for suggestions.... Checking the coolant level, and the mix of anti freeze in there would be a good start. In fact on a bike of that age it would be a really good idea to refresh the coolant anyway. -Also, Im unclear when putting in fresh coolant after removing the radiotor hose, if the coolant goes in the radiator? Plus obviously the coolant becomes hot; is it ok to have the lid off and run the engine, while shaking the bike side to side to remove the air? The manual should tell you EXACTLY how to fill and bleed the system. You can safely run the bike with the rad cap off though, just top it up via the expansion bottle as the air is forced out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kile Posted August 25, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2009 [Cheers for the tips. Ill get cracking, didnt think about the fan.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorenzo Posted August 25, 2009 Report Share Posted August 25, 2009 Your title says oil temp, and you're talking about coolant; I assume the oil's a typo? I read in your other post that you had a red light come on; was that the oil light or coolant? Did you check any levels of either before you set off? if the bike's been stored then it won't be uncommon for it to have the fluids drained from it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GPZRX Posted August 25, 2009 Report Share Posted August 25, 2009 Also, the red light on a K2 GSXR1000 is normally the F.I light playing up They always come on even when there isn't a fuel injection problem, common issue with loads of GSXR's so maybe the temp is actually in Fahrenheit and you have nothing to worry about Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kile Posted August 25, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2009 Also, the red light on a K2 GSXR1000 is normally the F.I light playing up They always come on even when there isn't a fuel injection problem, common issue with loads of GSXR's so maybe the temp is actually in Fahrenheit and you have nothing to worry about Theres only one red light Im afraid & the lcd reads 'hi temp'. Looking through the manual the coolent is identified as the most likely cause, be that not enough, a blockage, leak etc. Bikes flippin roastin, more than norm, not a faulty light, but nice idea! Ta Oh for a garage &me tools.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kile Posted August 25, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2009 Your title says oil temp, and you're talking about coolant; I assume the oil's a typo? I read in your other post that you had a red light come on; was that the oil light or coolant? Did you check any levels of either before you set off? if the bike's been stored then it won't be uncommon for it to have the fluids drained from it. All levels are fine and of correct colour and the light wasnt on when the bike was inspected before it was bought (at the weekend). Can you elaborate on your thoughts ref storage..If fresh liquids been put in & the levels are correct what might be the prob? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cagimaha Posted August 25, 2009 Report Share Posted August 25, 2009 The first thing I would check is whether the thermostat is working or not. Does the radiator get hot? If not then its the 'stat thats the problem. If the radiator is getting hot then the problem is something that is stopping the coolant system doing its job properly like an airlock or restriction of some kind. If you can find a way of keeping a fuel supply going then take the tank off and run the bike with no cap on the coolant tank and squeeze all the hoses you can get your mitts on and see if any bubbles rise up to the coolant tank. If this happens then you have/had an airlock and the coolant level will have fallen so top it up and go for a test ride. If there is no sign of an airlock then you are into unknown territory... Another thing you can try is to run the bike up to temperature and put a thermometer into the top of the coolant tank and see what temperature it is at. The coolant in the tank will be at a lower temperature than that stated by the dash but it shouldnt be much lower. It is possible that this is a sensor malfunction and the bike isnt actually overheating. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorenzo Posted August 26, 2009 Report Share Posted August 26, 2009 All levels are fine and of correct colour and the light wasnt on when the bike was inspected before it was bought (at the weekend). Can you elaborate on your thoughts ref storage..If fresh liquids been put in & the levels are correct what might be the prob? OK, what's the red light: is it oil or coolant? The thread title says oil, the thread says coolant. Has it got enough oil in there? Like I say, storage companies sometimes drain all the fluids to save them leaking during storage, you've not mentioned anything to do with oil levels and no oil will make a bike heat up very very quickly. Did you check both oil and coolant levels before you rode the bike? Have the levels stayed the same since you've ridden it? If one's dropped then I'd start looking for the leak, that's almost certainly your problem. If you've added fresh coolant since you got the bike, and added it by simply pouring it in and then running the bike, then you'll probably have an air lock. First step, make sure you don't have an air lock, see your maual. Once you've establised that, then it's a matter of making sure the radiator's doing its job. Run the bike up to about 70 deg and then, while it's running put your hand on the radiator, making sure you've had a feel of all of it, top, bottom and corners. Is it warm? Is it warm in one place and cold in another, or at least much cooler? If it's all one temp more or less then your radiator's working. If it's cold all over then your thermostat's stuck shut or you didn't get rid of that pesky air lock. If it's warm in one bit and cold in another, you've got a blocked radiator or it's not filled right up with water (more air in there, grrr!). If it's warm all over, but your fan doesn't come on after about 110 deg then your fan's knackered. If the bike's been raced, check you've actually got a fan. Short the terminals on the back of the temp sensor on the radiator, this should make your fan come on, so you know that it's the temp switch that's faulty, not the fan itself. Also, if the bike gets up to the other side of 115deg, get ready to switch it off. If you don't notice until it hits 120 or so, switch it off pronto. Hopefully this little lot will get you half way to knowing what your problem is, which is the hard bit, once that's been establised then all you have to do is fix it. The good news is that if your bike's been up to 130deg, then you know all your hose clips are in good condition... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kile Posted August 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 26, 2009 OK, what's the red light: is it oil or coolant? The thread title says oil, the thread says coolant. Has it got enough oil in there? Like I say, storage companies sometimes drain all the fluids to save them leaking during storage, you've not mentioned anything to do with oil levels and no oil will make a bike heat up very very quickly. Did you check both oil and coolant levels before you rode the bike? Have the levels stayed the same since you've ridden it? If one's dropped then I'd start looking for the leak, that's almost certainly your problem. The dash has only one red light and next to that are the symbols for the oil, FI. The levels were good before and after the ride. Person who checked the bike UK end has confirmed was running a good period and there was no red light illumination. Seller has stated all good and hasnt been ridden since MOT (last month). Speculates problem may be caused in transit. The dash is now flashing between FI and the temp Excellent advice, ta Ill do the suggested checks and see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
originalracingsnake Posted August 26, 2009 Report Share Posted August 26, 2009 Any update on the cause? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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