peter30 Posted May 18, 2009 Report Share Posted May 18, 2009 Might well be a bit simplistic for you hardened PBers but I thought I'd have a go and see how easy it all is... PB pinboard bargain out with the old Castrol Clutch cable off Idiots guide to bolt placement A standard clutch plate earlier today Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter30 Posted May 18, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2009 Continued.... No going back,hopefully Spring type pressure plate fitted Clutch arm finally lined up properly, took me a couple of goes to line up, only difficult bit of the operation. Held the arm 45 degrees to the left(looking at it) and the arm slipped onto the pull rod, lining up the marks perfectly(thanks Mr Haynes!) Back together About 2 hours work all up, taking it steady, 30 minutes of gasket scraping and cleaning was a pain. Clutch action much firmer at the lever, seems easier to launch from the traffic lights though. Not sure if this is technical enough to warrant a 'how to' guide, I'll leave it to the mods to decide. Passed MOT today as well, now to isolate the bastard electrical gremlin (side stand switch, fixed ) that is making every ride one into the unknown. Edit: For update on gremlins Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porter_jamie Posted May 18, 2009 Report Share Posted May 18, 2009 nice one. did it make the clutch action nicer? my r1 clutch was slipping at snet, so i'm going to need to get in there soon as well chrs J Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter30 Posted May 18, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2009 nice one. did it make the clutch action nicer? my r1 clutch was slipping at snet, so i'm going to need to get in there soon as well chrs J Just off for a test run to isolate electrical gremlins, I'll let you know later! Edit: It does what it says on the tin, feels more positive,trade off is left hand wanking spanners will be strangling things for a while, a bit more effort at the lever needed! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul8899 Posted May 18, 2009 Report Share Posted May 18, 2009 looks reasonably easy , Ill have to have a go fitting the one I've had in the shed far ages Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul8899 Posted May 18, 2009 Report Share Posted May 18, 2009 so not only does it improve your clutch action it also improves your sex life Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyJim Posted May 19, 2009 Report Share Posted May 19, 2009 Hi peter glad to see it went to a good home, nice to see it put to good use, you didn't waste any time getting it fitted. nice tutorial! loving the cardboard bolt template, I've used that before too it's a handy trick your R1 looks mintier than a bag of mints workshop hint: if you don't have to change the oil, it's possible to whip the clutch cover off without having to drain the oil first, due to the stacked gearbox the clutch is up above the sump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter30 Posted May 19, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2009 your R1 looks mintier than a bag of mints Thanks, 24k miles and well looked after by previous owners as well. Actually just giving its first problems. I'm having a mare with the electrics, running perfectly this morning, cut out about 30 times on the way home. Got to be clutch switch/sidestand related, but bloody infuriating, especially as its my daily transport. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyJim Posted May 20, 2009 Report Share Posted May 20, 2009 Thanks, 24k miles and well looked after by previous owners as well. Actually just giving its first problems. I'm having a mare with the electrics, running perfectly this morning, cut out about 30 times on the way home. Got to be clutch switch/sidestand related, but bloody infuriating, especially as its my daily transport. sorry to hear that. I'm sure you probably already know this, but just in case you don't: a lot, if not the majority of electrical problems on the early bikes can be traced to the large white connector block under the LHS infill panel, just under the clutch lever. it's where the front loom connects to the main loom; corrosion gets in & causes problems. may not be related to your problems, but it's worth a check - it's very quick & easy to access hope you get it sorted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter30 Posted May 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2009 sorry to hear that. I'm sure you probably already know this, but just in case you don't: a lot, if not the majority of electrical problems on the early bikes can be traced to the large white connector block under the LHS infill panel, just under the clutch lever. it's where the front loom connects to the main loom; corrosion gets in & causes problems. may not be related to your problems, but it's worth a check - it's very quick & easy to access hope you get it sorted Starter relay connection a bit hit and miss, bodged repair and she's flying again. Proper fix at the weekend. One day in the car sent me mad, I love my bike, it keeps me sane. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monkey Posted May 27, 2009 Report Share Posted May 27, 2009 Might well be a bit simplistic for you hardened PBers but I thought I'd have a go and see how easy it all is... Not at all... nice walkthrough, consider it pinned Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skolapper Posted September 3, 2009 Report Share Posted September 3, 2009 yeah seen that one. I have been told that having the clutch master 25mm will cause problems with some owners with SR engines in there. I will look into what it takes to raise the pivot as well then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
budda Posted July 23, 2011 Report Share Posted July 23, 2011 sorry to hear that. I'm sure you probably already know this, but just in case you don't: a lot, if not the majority of electrical problems on the early bikes can be traced to the large white connector block under the LHS infill panel, just under the clutch lever. it's where the front loom connects to the main loom; corrosion gets in & causes problems. may not be related to your problems, but it's worth a check - it's very quick & easy to access hope you get it sorted Monkey beat me to it that block is a nightmare.......FACT! Your bike looks familiar..... Uploaded with ImageShack.us Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheGoat Posted July 24, 2011 Report Share Posted July 24, 2011 workshop hint: if you don't have to change the oil, it's possible to whip the clutch cover off without having to drain the oil first, due to the stacked gearbox the clutch is up above the sump. Do you know if this applies to the latter models too? i.e. 2007. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex_H Posted July 24, 2011 Report Share Posted July 24, 2011 Got one of those in my bike too - one thing though, I see you've gone for all gold springs, the instructions say to use 3 gold and 3 black springs for a road bike, 6 black for r1 engine in a track car. Dunno if you got any spare springs with it or if it makes any odd's, just thought I'd mention it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kwakkwak6 Posted September 25, 2014 Report Share Posted September 25, 2014 i have been thinking about one of these. i have got used to kwaks for too many years and them having a slipper clutch . learning how to ride a bike that locks up in corners in a enlightening experience. does it make any difference to how it performs on gear breaking ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyJim Posted September 26, 2014 Report Share Posted September 26, 2014 i have been thinking about one of these. i have got used to kwaks for too many years and them having a slipper clutch . learning how to ride a bike that locks up in corners in a enlightening experience. does it make any difference to how it performs on gear breaking ? No. This simply replaces the yamaha OEM diaphragm clutch spring with coil springs; there's no 'slipper' effect at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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