madmike Posted January 9, 2010 Report Share Posted January 9, 2010 My NC29 is gonna need a new alternator (or a rewinding) but thats for a later date... Cold starting never happens unless the battery has been fully charged! So... the bike has been sat outside covered up for a while so on sunday night im gonna charge the battery and then on monday i shall attempt to start it and let it run for about 5 - 10mins... Now... Ive noticed alot of people apply some choke and then twist the throttle about 3 times while the engine is off... I may sound like an idiot but... what does that do? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thom_1991 Posted January 9, 2010 Report Share Posted January 9, 2010 Pump fuel in from the carbs maybe ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madmike Posted January 9, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2010 I thought someone was going to say that... lol I meant while the engine is off... I thought it would just open the carbs up... Does it still spray petrol in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cagimaha Posted January 9, 2010 Report Share Posted January 9, 2010 It's not as daft a question as you might think. Depends what sort of carbs they are. If they're older CV carbs then it will do the sum total of f*ck all but if they're flatslides (some racier ones don't have chokes at all you have to prime it with a few twists of the throttle) or if they're newer CV's with accelerator pumps then it will squirt a bit of fuel down the inlets. With injectors it won't do anything either. Hope this helps, Ben. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madmike Posted January 9, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2010 Ah I believe the NC29 Carbs Are CV? Thanks for clearing that up, I still never EVER get it right cold starting, I have pretty decent legs now from all the bump starts though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RonniB Posted January 10, 2010 Report Share Posted January 10, 2010 Ah I believe the NC29 Carbs Are CV? Thanks for clearing that up, I still never EVER get it right cold starting, I have pretty decent legs now from all the bump starts though If the NC29 is anything like the NC30 in terms of coldstarting, then give it full choke and DO NOT touch the throttle, then push the button. It will idle high-ish and after a good 20-30 sec start to ease of the choke and compensating with slight blips of throttle. Your battery problems could also be rectifier/regulator related, so check that aswell as the stator. Ronni Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorenzo Posted January 10, 2010 Report Share Posted January 10, 2010 Yep, being a honda of a certain age, check the reg/rec as thoroughly as possible before doing stator stuff. Don't know if the reg/rec off an nc30 will have the same connections etc, but if you were to know somebody with 2 nc30's it might be worth having a look, mightn't it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madmike Posted January 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2010 well... I mentioned it to a my local mechanic last time its was in the garage and he checked the voltage over? or is it amps? not too sure with this elec stuff... Anyway on idle the reading should be around 12? then on revs (about 5,000) it should be between 12->14 and then it should bounce back from 14 to show that the reg rec is doing its job... But its not even getting that high. I was told the alternator is on its way out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madmike Posted January 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2010 Any age R6 one? Cause ill hunting round the flea bay with me credit card sharpish! If the NC29 is anything like the NC30 in terms of coldstarting, then give it full choke and DO NOT touch the throttle,. Ronni Ive never needed full choke! even on relatively cold days i dont need choke or throttle! And even if its failed to start and ive had to bump start when i pull the choke up after about a quarter of the way up, its flooding! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madmike Posted January 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2010 joshmolloy, You're probably right, They were balanced recently though... Will those mixture screws be a cause of the problem> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madmike Posted January 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2010 Well. went out in the freezing cold with a charged battery... and... She Motherfookin started! let her run for 5-10mins anyway and brought the battery back in! Anyway... one of my float heights is off/broken... so does this sound right to anyone? when i was holding the start button it would fire every second but not enough to spin up... You could tell she was nearly there! Then she started after about 5 seconds... At first it sounded like it was running on 3 or a rough 4! but after a few seconds of gentle throttle blipping it was running perfectly smooth. there was no instant transition where i heard it suddenly start firing on 4 thats why i believe it is firing on a rough 4 and 1 of the floaty heights is abit porked. Until it gets running and some air across it. Does that sounds right? Im wondering if the float height is the reason for the rough sound when she first fires up AND why it sort of stuggles to start? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cagimaha Posted January 11, 2010 Report Share Posted January 11, 2010 If one of your float heights is gone then the carb is probably just flooding constantly then when the petrol tap is open. That would definitely cause the symptoms you describe (running on 3 cylinders). I would also be wary about it dripping fuel onto the top of the engine because if the floats are broken then there is nothing to stop the fuel flowing into the float bowl of the carb and then out of the overflow when it fills up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madmike Posted January 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2010 ive looked for leaking petrol and there isn't any. I dont think the float is broken, just off. I was told that the NC29 floats cannot be adjusted or something? I will have to source the new float needle? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cagimaha Posted January 11, 2010 Report Share Posted January 11, 2010 I've just had a look at the microfiche and as far as I can tell the floats can be adjusted as normal by bending the little tab that the needle valve sits on. You need to take it apart and see whats up. If the float has just dropped off the needle valve then its fairly simple (but quite fiddly) to put the float back on the needle valve. If the floats themselves are broken then you will need to try to source a replacement because if it is leaking (i.e. it dosen't float any more) then they are quite hard to repair yourself. They were available from Honda on their own without having to buy the needle valve (which are usually ridiculously expensive) but I imagine would be quite hard to source in the UK. It might be a better bet to contact someone like allens performance r&d (mikuni and keihin dealers) and see if they can supply spares. If you could post a picture of the float/needle valve then I should be able to spot whats wrong. Hope this helps, Ben. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madmike Posted January 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2010 I cleaned the carbs out myself a while back... probably havn't put them back together properly Ill try and get them looked at AS soon as this ice clears up! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorenzo Posted January 11, 2010 Report Share Posted January 11, 2010 well... I mentioned it to a my local mechanic last time its was in the garage and he checked the voltage over? or is it amps? not too sure with this elec stuff... Anyway on idle the reading should be around 12? then on revs (about 5,000) it should be between 12->14 and then it should bounce back from 14 to show that the reg rec is doing its job... But its not even getting that high. I was told the alternator is on its way out It'd be worth seeing if a reg off a mates bike fits straight off, and then just sticking a multimeter across the battery. you'll want about 12v when it's off, about 13v at tickover, then up to about 14.5v at most revs above about 4000 or so. The reg/rec means it rectifies the voltage (converts it from AC to DC so it's suitable for your bikes electric system), then it regulates it (keeps the level to a sensible amount). The regulator and rectifier are literally in the same unit, so to be able to check the output in terms of 14v etc means he was testing across the battery, which is in fact the output of the reg/rec. To be able to test the output of the alternator then he'd have not got a meter reading like he had, hence he can't know what the reg's putting out in comparison to what the alternator is doing. He may be right that the alternator's not putting out enough voltage for the regulator to be actually having to 'hit in', but it could be that the reg's just coming in too early. A quick reg/rec swap over could prove this one way or the other and will take perhaps 5 minutes. Seeing as it's by some distance the most common problem on Hondas this age, I'd say it'd be worth the hassle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madmike Posted January 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2010 Very fair point lorenzo, I think nick has just fitted an R6 reg rec to his NC30. Ill give him a buzz. Main thing is even with these problems... a full battery and she started! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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